Adolph Lindemann

Inscription: Father Here lies Aaron David the son of Yehudah

• Reference: Find A Grave Memorial - SmartCopy: Apr 25 2016, 23:26:54 UTC

http://collectingvintagecompacts.blogspot.com/2011/11/irresistible-...

Irresistible. Sometimes the name says it all, and for a cosmetics brand the name was brilliant. Not only did it have the subliminal magnetism to buy the product itself but, once applied, it also promised to deliver what many young girls wished to become – irresistible. Add the memorable advertising images penned by one of America’s most famous female pin-up artists – Zoe Mozert – and it is no wonder that Irresistible cosmetics sold well.

An early 1930s pastel drawing by Zoe Mozert Released in 1932 by the very French-sounding Joubert et Cie, Irresistible was, like many brands, an invention of an American company that specialized in manufacturing cosmetics and perfumes for the 5 and 10 cent stores.

In 1887, nineteen-year-old Aaron David Lindemann emigrated from what was then a part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, looking for the better life promised by America. Over the course of the next few years AD, as he apparently called himself, gained a qualification as a pharmacist, opened a drug store in New York’s Lower East Side, at 153 Rivington Street, and became Adolf Lindemann.

The earliest reference to Adolf Lindemann becoming involved with cosmetics comes from a trademark for perfumes and a variety of toilet goods that he had started making from September 1914. In reality, Adolf had probably been making cosmetics well before that time, in response to the gradually increasing demand for toilet goods because American society had been reluctantly and slowly acquiescing to women using cosmetics for several decades. By the time World War I had broken out in Europe the cosmetics floodgates had opened. As a druggist Adolf would have had the knowledge and access to the necessary ingredients to make a variety of toilet articles and it was probably because women were asking for cosmetics, in growing numbers by that time, that he was prompted to start to make them himself rather than by merely selling others’ products.

Adolf D Lindemann

Lindemann’s earliest cosmetics would probably have been made for his clients, alone, but in order to sell more widely he needed to create some sort of brand. The 1914 attempt was the first although the particular name is not known. However, in October 1918 he trademarked the name ‘Joubert’ which he applied to perfumes and a full range of cosmetics including; powders, rouges, creams and lotions. Although some have claimed that Joubert was a French perfume house I have found no evidence at all that this was the case and it seems to me that it was Adolf’s invention and that its home was in The Lower East Side of Manhattan.

Within a few years, Joseph, Adolf’s only son, joined him in the toilet goods business. In fact, at the age of just 22, following his own qualifications as a pharmacist from The Brooklyn College of Pharmacy, Joseph actually referred to himself as being a perfumer (rather than a pharmacist), working at the Rivington Street premises. The records also show that the business was referred to as Adolf D Lindemann & Son from about 1921.

It seems clear that Adolf, at heart, had a strong altruistic streak. As a pharmacist and drug store owner he was able to help his local Jewish community but he wanted to do more. He achieved this by going to medical school and eventually becoming a General Practitioner. Joseph, on the other hand, seemed to have a keen interest in the perfumery activities and eventually this would see father and son each following their preferences. By 1925 it was clear that Joseph had already been given the responsibility for the cosmetics side of the business with Adolf focusing more on General Practice as well as the manufacture of drugs for which he had a company named Ad-Lax Manufacturing Company – the first three letters of which were derived from Adolf’s own name.

As for the cosmetics business, by 1924 the trademark name ‘Joubert’ had assumed a distinctly French persona and had relocated to new premises. It was known as Joubert Cie, parfums, its address was listed as 24 East 22nd Street and Joseph Lindemann was listed as the owner. In fact, Joseph can be credited, ultimately, for the creation of the Irresistible line and a number of other brands but in the process, he also created a number of related companies and untangling this corporate labyrinth is a challenge.

Joseph Lindemann's first Design Patent In early 1925 a new company known as Joubert Cie Inc was created and this absorbed and effectively replaced the original Joubert Cie. I interpret this to mean that Joseph obtained money from other investors to expand Joubert Cie and that new management was installed. However, Joseph retained an interest in the new incorporation as its Treasurer. But he was not just the money man, he was obviously involved in the detailed operations of Joubert as evidenced by his designing a perfume flacon for use by the company, in 1926.

Blue Waltz compact cases were cheaply made C1930

The use of the term 'Poudre' was designed to keep that imaginary French touch

Despite all this, the Blue Waltz logo did have a certain elegance and sophistication about it. With more money available it took little time for new perfumes and cosmetics lines to be introduced. In June 1927 two new lines made their appearance – Blue Garden and Blue Waltz. Of the two, Blue Waltz proved to be by far the more popular and Blue Waltz collectibles, including compact cases, can still be found today. A number of other lines were released in the following years including: D’Anjou (1927), A Toi Cherie (1927), Divine Kiss (1929) and Empress Eugenie (1931) and despite the strong French influence in naming many of Joubert’s lines, the company eventually changed to plain English names starting with the subject of this post – Irresistible – which was released in June 1932. A few months later, to complement the magnetic allure of this line, a new cosmetic was launched, named Lip Lure. These two products, and a third to match them – named Cheek Lure – released in 1935 would be among the company’s major sellers - all at 5 and 10-cent stores - for the next seven years, at least.

A1931 Blue Waltz advertisement - note the reference to Joubert Cie and also to the copy that mentions Irresistible a full year before the Irresistible line was launched But, before Irresistible made inroads into the market, it was Blue Waltz that was the company’s flagship product. In recognition of this a separate company was created, in about 1934, named Blue Waltz Inc. At about the same time another company was created named Jolind Inc. The name derived from the first few letters of Joseph Lindemann’s name (much like his father’s Ad-Lax company). So collectors will see references to Joubert Inc, Blue Waltz Inc and Jolind Inc. They all had Joseph Lindemann in common but there might have been some subtle financial implications for the flow of money. They escape me, I must admit. Finally, in mid 1934, an entity known as Maison Joubert was also created and a new showroom for Joubert's cosmetics and perfumes was established at 71 Fifth Avenue.

1935 advertisement featuring the earlier Zoe Mozert pastel

1935 advertisement - 'While Other Girls Wilt and Lose Their Charm You Can Keep Irresistible'

1935 advertisment - 'Awaken Love Be Utterly Irresistible'

Zoe Mozart, the artist, who also seemed to pose for glamour shots, herself. Read more about Zoe here 1935 was the year in which Irresistible products were advertised extensively in magazines using ‘Irresistible’ girls drawn by Zoe Mozert. These sumptuously illustrated portraits exuded a sexuality that cannot be denied and which were matched, in terms of visual impact, only by the Kissproof girl drawn by Rolf Armstrong a decade earlier. Along with Mozert’s ladies, with their heavily rouged cheeks and lips, the Irresistible packaging was just as eye catching. Based on a 1934 Design Patent, registered in Joseph Lindemann’s name, the Irresistible packaging was notable for the jet black Bakelite-moulded closures that served as either a bottle cap or lifting tab depending on the nature of the package and product. The promotion of Irresistible products was successful enough to cause the creation of yet another company in 1939 known as Irresistible Inc.

This Joseph Lindemann Design Patent served as the basis for the design of all Irresistible packaging

1938 advertisment To be Completely Ravishing Use All Irresistible Beauty Aids'

1939 advertisement 'It is Easy Now to Be a Glamour Girl'

1939 advertisement 'Irresistible Brings You Lipsticks in Fashion's Newest Shades' For the compact collector the most common Irresistible case is one used for Cheek Lure. Made from pressed metal with a top in the shape of a flower and painted in a yellow colour, these packages were cheap to make – as you might expect for a product that sold for 5 cents. It says something about the mark up by other companies when you consider that Joseph Lindemann and his companies still managed to make a very healthy living from these cheap cosmetics products.

The packaging of this 'Cheek Lure' from the late 1930s was, itself, irresistible. The rouge was offered in shades like 'Flash Red', 'Candy Stripe Red' and 'Schoolhouse Red'. The market was teenage girls.

A colourful Irresistible Gift Box C1939.

The Irresistible Cheek Lure Rouge Box C1935 New products launched by Irresistible – Blue Waltz – Joubert – Jolind from 1936 onwards, seemed to target the same market as the Irresistible line – young girls with not much money who wanted to attract the opposite sex. The choice of brand name indicates an unashamed and overt message about the sort of behavior the use of these products might elicit. So we have lines such as Mischief (1936), Expectation (1937), Infatuation (1937), Naughty (1937), Sweet Moments (1937), Persuasion (1937), Precious Moments (1940), All of Me (1945) and Bait (1945).

Joseph Lindemann By 1949, however, a major change took place. A company named Nestle Le Mur merged with Irresistible Inc and Blue Waltz Inc and this brought to an end Joseph’s Lindemann’s involvement. Incidentally, Nestle Le Mur had been formed in 1927 by a merger of the Cleveland-based Le Mur Company and Karl Nessler’s New York Company. Both had permanent wave products and the new company was expanding into mainstream cosmetics. Just before the merger with Irresistible Inc, Nestle Le Mur had purchased the two major lines from V Vivaudou Inc – Mavis talcum powder as well as Djer-Kiss powders and perfumes.

As happens so often with mergers and acquisitions, there are inevitably casualties and Irresistible seemed to have been one of them. Evidence of Irresistible sales, after 1950, is hard to find, although Blue Waltz is still available today!

A 1955 advertisment for Blue Waltz As for the Lindemanns, Alfred died in 1952 and Joseph in 1985. In retrospect, their's was quite a remarkable story and one that is not diminished by their making cheap cosmetics. In fact, in all probability, their products reached far more women and girls than did better quality and far more expensive products. For those with little money to spend their products were, well, irresistible.

My thanks to Frank Sternad for summarising the Irresistible chronology so comprehensively and to Helaine Cigal for the Lindemann images.