Guy Henry Bullock

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guy_Bullock

Guy Henry Bullock (23 July 1887 – 12 April 1956) was a British diplomat who is best known for his participation in the 1921 British Mount Everest reconnaissance expedition. As expedition mountaineers, he and George Mallory found a northern access route to Everest by climbing the 6,849-metre (22,470 ft) Lhakpa La col above the East Rongbuk Glacier and by going on to reach the North Col at 7,020 metres (23,030 ft). They did not, however, reach the summit of Mount Everest.

Born in Beijing (his father was British Consul to China), Bullock was educated at Winchester where he was a scholar, a cricketer and noted long-distance runner. Described as a "level-headed mathematician", he followed his father into the Consular Service and spent 34 years serving in the United States (where he met his wife), Africa, South America, and Europe.

Bullock was an experienced climber, photographer, and member of the Alpine Club. In 1921, on George Mallory's recommendation, he was invited (as a last-minute substitute) to join the British Mt Everest reconnaissance expedition. He was initial denied leave to do so by his superiors in the Foreign Office, but was finally given special dispensation by the Foreign Secretary himself, Lord Curzon. The two most experienced mountaineers on the team did not reach the mountain, leaving only Mallory and the "steady and cheerful" Bullock as main climbers. They spent nearly five months thoroughly exploring possible routes up to the summit, and ultimately reached the North Col; but unable to continue, they were forced to descend again. Bullock's diary of the expedition was published in 1962 in the Alpine Journal.